Hey there!!
Here’s to hoping you’re happy and healthy at this time! There is no limit on the good information that you can learn on jewelry as a subject matter. You could waste money if you make a poor purchasing decision, I know I have! Although, I have gained a massive amount of knowledge since starting this endeavor. Throughout my journey of creating BAISAM jewelry, I have learned from some pretty hefty mistakes, let’s chat about that later, I am not ready to fully expose myself, but I cannot begin to express how exciting this ride is and has been. It has certainly been challenging, but I’ve always been kept on my toes to say the least. We have to love a good chase, right?! I want to geek out for a second, and share some of the beautiful process and craftsmanship behind the creation of BAISAM jewelry. I hope learning about the origin of these pieces brings you a bit closer to your BAISAM jewels. Without further ado, let’s chat production!
As a rule of thumb, sterling silver will almost always be hallmarked with a stamp such as .925, ster. or sterling. Be wary if you do not see this label, however the standards for silver differ across the globe. Anyway, I am sure you have seen this almost microscopic stamp on the tag of a necklace or hidden on the back of a ring. You may have even wondered why on earth 925 has any association with sterling silver at all. (If you’re anything like me, you checked the letters on the keypad on your phone to try and make sense of it). 925 sterling silver refers to a silver product with a silver content of about 92.5%, whose purity is about 92.5%. Ironically, 92.5% is actually recognized as pure silver. It is because silver with a high purity such as 100% is too soft to work with and easy to be oxidized. 925 sterling silver is added with 7.5% other metals, most commonly copper, however, some opt to add more durability with alloys of zinc or nickel instead. This process makes the precious metal have the ideal hardness for jewelry.
First of all, 925 silver raw materials have no shape. They are produced by professional silver suppliers, and then processed by manufacturers. Suppliers of raw silver materials use chemical methods to refine and crush silver-containing ore. Generally, the silver element in the ore is extracted by the silver ammonia method, which is to turn the silver element into a stable complex, which is further decomposed.
The manual production of silver jewelry basically involves the process of melting silver, forging, cutting, making lead, carving, welding, and cleaning. For an in depth description on the process, sign up for my newsletter. I have a blog post called The Silver Production Manual - Step By Step next Sunday. I’m so excited to geek out about the behind the scenes!
Time for the creativity! I begin with collaborating with head of production. I give my inspirations and ideas and we start to work out the style for the collection. Once the style is clear, we begin generating 3D designs to see if any corrections or adjustments are necessary before bringing the visions to life. Every single detail is analyzed! Once I had to have a new bracelet design completely re-stocked after production because I didn’t go through the details with a fine tooth comb the first time! I hated the way the clasp fell on the wrist, it just wasn’t function because it was so uncomfortable! Anyway, we don’t say much more about that because I’m still not ready to fully expose myself.
The details are sent to production and they begin working on the designs. It starts with creating molds for the pieces. Then, they start casting the pieces for the collection, and cutting the details. Quickly things start coming together and the team works on modifying molds, lines, and setting any gemstones. Now it’s time to attach accessories like pendants, and solder clasps and extensions!
The working principle is: the jewelry is electroplated in an all-gold electroplating solution, so it is essentially bathing the silver jewelry in a bath of gold particles. The plating thickness of the jewelry surface is determined according to the calculation of time in the machine, so as to produce high-quality jewelry.
We work with 925 sterling silver with a 18K gold vermeil overlay with most all pieces at BAISAM jewelry. There is an electroplating process that takes place. I provide more clarification below on the difference between gold plated, gold vermeil, and gold filled. The pieces are then polished, cleaned and sent to me for packaging. Head of production and myself are in contact through the entire process and have 8-10 quality check opportunities. Reputable suppliers/manufacturers will provide samples. You will be charged initially and refunded when the bulk order is received. I would not recommend working with a supplier who charges you for samples.
Once my order is received, I start collaborating with photographers and models to shoot the collection. I will take product photos and write descriptions in the time before the shoot. I start announcements a month in advance to hype everyone up for launch. It’s exhilarating because not only is your art coming alive, you’re seeing MONTHS of research and forecasting for the collection come into play!
What is the difference between gold plated, gold vermeil and gold filled?
Gold Plated -
Gold plated jewelry is extremely affordable, however it is not long lasting. Frequently it is made with less precious metals such as brass or copper. It is created with an electroplating process. The plating is made of gold, 10K or higher, with a coating of 0.5 microns thick. Since the gold plating is so thin, the pieces tend to fade and tarnish quickly, exposing the base metal directly to the skin which tends to cause green staining and irritation.
Gold Vermeil -
Gold vermeil (ver-MAY) jewelry is considered finer jewelry, with a finer price tag associated to it. It delivers a great luster with its THICK 2.5 micron coating of gold, 10K or higher. Gold vermeil is long lasting and with the right amount of love, will last for decades, if not a lifetime. Compared gold plated jewelry, gold vermeil is hypoallergenic due to the 925 sterling silver base. Similar to gold plating, gold vermeil is an electroplating process.
Gold Filled -
Gold filled jewelry is created using a bit different manufacturing process, a pressure and heat bonding process. The process begins with a base metal such as nickel or brass. The gold coating on gold filled jewelry is a bit more durable as the layer is welded onto the base metal. U.S standards for gold filled must be 1/20, or 5% of the jewelry’s weight in gold (at least 10K or higher) to be considered gold filled. Gold filled jewelry is long lasting and is a bit more resistant to everyday wear and tear, however this also comes with a bigger price tag.
I am passionate about designing unique pieces, and I am fortunate enough to work with such incredible talent to bring my visions to life. Finding the right team was a mission in itself. Fortunately, the manufacturers I have partnered with are dedicated to providing superior quality and tasty craftsmanship with over 20 years experience. With quality at the forefront of everything we do, amazing partnerships with the top plating manufacturers and artificial diamond suppliers have flourished. I think I can speak for us all and say we are excited to continue to serve and deliver quality jewelry that makes you feel confident and unstoppable!
Please love your investments! Due to the fine nature of these precious metals, there can be sensitivity to moisture and chemicals. It’s imperative to remove your treasures before sleeping, cleaning, exercising, and showering to maximize the longevity of your jewels. I empower you to take a moment to consider how your valuable jewelry is stored and sorted. You can protect your jeweled investments with hooks, boxes and holders that keep each piece intact and prevent tangles. Don't just box all the pieces together in a pile. Not only can it damage finer, fragile pieces, but it can also make a tangled mess out of chains.
Most jewelry is intended to last for a life time. High quality jewelry is well-crafted and made of exceptional materials. With the right amount of love, your metals will reciprocate that love for years and years! Well, this article has just touched on the highlights throughout the journey of BAISAM jewelry, and I hope this brings you closer to your jewels. Personally, I find it quite rewarding to be apart of the process. There is still so much to learn, but I’m so excited to gather all this knowledge with you! Hopefully you've now got a few new facts to share! As always, thanks you so much for reading. I share new blog posts every Sunday, so make sure to sign up for the newsletter to stay in the know!
With love,
Sam Emmons
Creator of BAISAM Jewelry
